Not Quite a Groni: Rye
If you swap in Old Overholt Bonded for Gin Mare, how does it change the "negroni"?
Like I mentioned 2 weeks ago, one of the things I want to do this year is go through the home bar and review / define some other cocktails we can make without buying anything else at all. That’s going to mean lots of variations on Old Fashioneds, Manhattans, and Negronis.
Classically, a negroni made with rye instead of gin is called a Boulevardier. But, the “official” recipe breaks from the negroni in that it contains 50% more rye than vermouth or Campari, so it’s not an equal-parts drink. However, the first written recipe specified equal parts and bourbon instead of rye. So, it can kinda be anything…
And if it can be anything, can rye swap into my house recipe and produce a good drink?
The short answer, of course, is yes. It’s a classic for a reason, and even though the house Negroni isn’t the classic recipe, the bones are similar enough that this known-to-be-successful swap is going to work in general.
But, this particular swap has some unique characteristics that made me a bit nervous in the specifics:
Some gin can be a bit spicy, but Gin Mare sure ain’t. Old Overholt Bonded, on the other hand, is relatively spicy even for a rye. So there’s a huge front-palate discrepancy that won’t always exist.
Gin Mare is ~43% alcohol, and OOB is (obviously) 50%. The house Negroni drinks at ~21%, and with the rye swap this “boulevardier” drinks at ~23%. That’s not a huge difference, but it’s almost certainly enough to taste.
So, with those concerns, how does this not-quite-groni hold up?
The spice takes over the herbs, so there’s a much sharper edge here
It opens up quite a bit as it dilutes more, and the rye spice and the amari start playing together really nicely as they separate
Definitely taste more alcohol, but it’s not overwhelming
Head-to-head, I prefer the original. But if someone comes over very opposed to gin, then this is a great option that still delivers on the core Negroni promise. I do think amping up maybe just a bit more sweet vermouth and a little less rye might make it drink a bit smoother.
But, there are other options too. I’ll keep coming back to these “not-quite-gronis” throughout the year with other spirits in the bar.